FERROCEMENT BOATS(HULLS)

FERROCEMENT BOATS

SAMSON MARINE & HARTLEY AND BROOKS HAVE BOAT CONSTRUCTION PLANS WOODEN BATTEN TO SHAPE HULL FORM

CONSTRUCTION: 3 COATS OF GALVANIZED CHICKEN WIRE TO COVER ALL HULL, WITH FISH NET BEHIND METAL RODS(WIRE MESH)

WIRE TYEING DEVICE (FOR THE ABOVE MATERIAL):

INSTALL (WELD) A 1/4" DIAMETER ROD TO THE VICEGRIPS TO INSERT INTO THE HAND DRILL AND USE AS A TYEING TOOL MORTAR SAND+ WATER WITH INHIBITOR ON THE WATER TO STOP CORROSION OF METAL

Before you cement the hull, install all your ports(holes) for bilges, holding tanks,clits, anchor settings, etc. all with stainless steel. On the basis of a material – anodes are Zinc anodes and aluminium, anodes are preferred in the marine industry. In the case of a ship, seawater acts as an electrolyte and transfers the electrons from the anode by oxidizing it over the steel plate and making a protecting layer The anode will corrode first sacrificing itself for the other compound and it is thus called sacrificial anode. If the metal is more active it will be easily oxidized and will protect the metallic compound by making it act as cathode MIX PROPORTION: The ratio of cement to sand is 1:5 to 2:5. That is 1 portion of cement and 5 portions of sand or 2 portions of cement and 5 portions of sand. Mortar is hydraulic cement mortar. Water content ranges from 0.35 kg water per kg of cement to 0.6 kg water per kg of cement. The cement type used is Ordinary Portland cement. Sand occupies 60% to 75% of volume. Admixtures used are plasticizers. Plasticizers are water content reducing agents without compromising the strength of the mortar. Air entrainment, use of plasticizers, and less water ensure the strength of mortar NEXT YOU INSTALL THE FERROCEMENT, AND COVER THE HULL WITH A TARP AND STEAM IT TO CURE THE FERROCEMENT FOR 24 HRS NOTE: It is important to finish this first phase of steaming the concrete, so you have a hard concrete to work with, so that the second phase of sealing the concrete is independent of the curing of the concrete. (It is like the aggregates are sealed with the water-cement slurry, and the cement voids of the concrete are sealed with the clear epoxy sealer, so that the boat can float). ONCE THE FERROCEMENT IS HARDEN, YOU FAIR IT WITH CEMENT PASTE & CLEAR EPOXY SEALER. NEXT YOU EPOXY WITH CLEAR EPOXY SEALER (so the concrete would not be pourous and it can float).

ONCE YOU HAVE THE HULL BUILT YOU INSTALL THE CEMENT BALLAST INSIDE. AT LEAST HALF OT THE GROUND AND THE REST AS NEEDED ONCE IN THE WATER, TO DETERMINE THE FLOATING LINE. ONLY FOR SAIL BOATS

Epoxy finish paint, the type like the Highway line paint, over epoxy sealer besides bottom paint DETAILS: DETAIL OF DECK ASSEMBLE for 36’ FOOTERS RUBBER STRIP BETWEEN HULL AND WOODEN BOARD WOOD BOARD (TEAK) RUBBER FENCE ATTACHED TO HULL FERROCEMENT HULL (3/4”) AND THE RUDDER SEATS NEED TO BE STAINLESS STEEL DETAILS: DO NOT FORGET THE SACRIFIAL ANODES TO PROTECT YOUR METAL HULL & RUDDER. REMARKS • WE CAN COMPARE A FERROCEMENT SHELL TO AN EGG SHELL, For an egg shell to brake it takes certain amount of force compare to the thin shell of the egg. The same with a ferrocement shell it takes a big force to brake this shell compare to the thickness of the hull. • SPEAKING OF SHELLS, THE SAME COMPARE SITUATION WITH AN EGG AN A FERROCEMENT SHELL, IF YOU HIT THEM IT LOSSES CONTINUITY AND THERE FOR STRENGHT. • It is important that the shell for the 36’ footers and the 45’ footers will be (3/4”) ferrocement, and for the 80’ footers (1-1/2”) thick. There are some fishing ferrocement boats from Russia that the ferrocement shell (HULL) is 3”. That is not economic do to the fact that you have to have a bigger motor to propel such HEVIER boat.